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Post by grandmasterwang on Sept 13, 2020 7:09:17 GMT
Very nice Magic Lore crew
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Post by mottdon on Sept 13, 2020 11:59:26 GMT
Those are so unique and brilliant. Do you have a favorite? Well, if I had to pick one, it'd probably be the Fire Wizard. It probably doesn't translate over the pics very well, but the black cloak has whisps of smoke as well as ash cinders floating across it. That's one that really came out how I envisioned it.
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Post by mottdon on Oct 14, 2020 0:35:02 GMT
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Post by Morvael on Oct 14, 2020 5:59:25 GMT
Mottdon, are just a painting machine or what? More superb work 👌
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Post by markdienekes on Oct 14, 2020 6:23:33 GMT
Those are brilliant fella! Bloody marvellous!
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Post by mottdon on Oct 14, 2020 8:17:24 GMT
Haha, thanks guys! I do typically churn out so models, but these, however, we're done some time ago. I've just never taken good pics of them. I'm trying to go through my armies and properly document them and hopefully, get some commission work out of it, Morvael & markdienekes
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Post by mottdon on Oct 17, 2020 14:56:15 GMT
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Post by mottdon on Oct 19, 2020 0:22:56 GMT
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Post by knoffles on Nov 24, 2020 11:07:35 GMT
Done! Finished my 50 Spearmen! . I saw you posted this on FB and wanted to ask how you paint your whites? If I’m having to paint a metric ton of empire at some point, there’s a good chance that white will be half the colour used, so I definitely need some pointers!
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Post by mottdon on Nov 24, 2020 14:51:51 GMT
Done! Finished my 50 Spearmen! . I saw you posted this on FB and wanted to ask how you paint your whites? If I’m having to paint a metric ton of empire at some point, there’s a good chance that white will be half the colour used, so I definitely need some pointers! Depends on the kind of White. These you see here are more of a bold white yet not bright. I prime the model black, apply a base layer of Ainistratum Grey, then a heavy drybrush of Wraithbone. If you want to edge highlight something for a little additional pop, use White Scar (that'll make it really gleam). If you want a bold, very pure, white, then prime the model with White primer, use a base layer of Morghast Bone (or Ushabti Bone) and then drybrush on the Wraithbone. I use this combination on my High Elves because I see them as a "perfect", unblemished race, and they'd only settle for the purest of pure whites. It's a very subtle difference between these two, and doesn't show very well in pics, but you can see it well in person. Plus, when you start using it a lot in large numbers such as this, it really starts to have a big impact. A word of warning: hardly anything we see in nature is ever a truly white, white. It's usually just a shade off. That's why I hardly ever use White Scar other that for the very occasional highlight ON SOMETHING WHITE. I usually stick to Wraithbone (my new favorite). Before Wraithbone was introduced, I used Ulthuan Grey, but it's just a tad more on the Grey side, whereas Wraithbone is more creamy. Personal preference though. If you ever have any questions, such as this one, please let me know! I'm happy to help any way I can!
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Post by sedge on Nov 24, 2020 20:11:57 GMT
How do you drybrush the white so accurately? Or do you do the white before other colours?
I usually find I can only drybrush one colour on a model (usually metal, or if it's a skeleton then bone) because otherwise it gets too messy and you end up ruining other parts of the miniature you've already painted.
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Post by knoffles on Nov 24, 2020 23:16:05 GMT
I was thinking the same thing sedge and my main drybush is normally the metals. And thanks mottdon
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Tubis
Full Member
Posts: 228
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Post by Tubis on Nov 25, 2020 10:11:21 GMT
A mighty unit indeed, good job! Loving that bsb too.
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Post by mottdon on Nov 25, 2020 11:55:49 GMT
How do you drybrush the white so accurately? Or do you do the white before other colours? I usually find I can only drybrush one colour on a model (usually metal, or if it's a skeleton then bone) because otherwise it gets too messy and you end up ruining other parts of the miniature you've already painted. Usually I go with the color I have the most of on a model, or is the brightest color. In cases like these guys, it's really a toss up. Pick one and go. I do, however, base coat the model first. So in this case, for example, these guys were all grey and dark blue for a WHILE. I find that this is the longest and usually, most tedious step. Sometimes drybrushing can take longer, as was the case with the Beastmen I just finished, but that was because I used a base coat of Dryad Bark, then heavily drybrushed Gothor Brown, then lightly drybrushed a 50/50 mix of Gothor Brown and Cadian Fleshstone. The mixing slowed me considerably. Anyway, I digress. Once all are base coated, then I will take about 4 different sized brushes and and have at the drybrushing. The more subtle you want your blending of colors, the more paint you wipe off your brushes. Sedge, this might be your problem if it's looking too spotty or there's too much contrast. You never want to leave too much paint on your brush. When I wipe the paint from my brush, I do so by making little, quick circle motions, to make sure that I clean the bristles from all angles. The last thing you want is a glob to appear mid-stroke. YOU WILL GO THROUGH A LOT OF PAINT. But, that's okay. The paint can last quite a long time, especially if you're using a wet pallet (which I highly recommend). After you're satisfied with your bristle saturation, then hit the major areas. Don't worry about the parts close to other major colors just yet. Once those are covered, do it again with a slightly smaller brush, that has a less-frayed tip. Be a little more controlled with your strokes and go along the edges of colors. Fill in as best you can, but don't worry if there's a slight line between the two. That can actually look pretty good as it helps define the edge and create the desired 3D effect. This first drybrush layer should cover the majority of raised surfaces and only leave the recessed areas of the model as base color. (When it comes to drybrushing skin, I always make my strokes from top-down. You really want those shadows on a face!) Then get your lighter color (I try to make is color a bright option) and do the same thing, except very lightly going over the highest/most raised areas. This is where the majority of your OSL (Object Source Lighting) comes into play. Think about where your light from above will be falling on the model. Quickly hit those areas. (This is VERY important on banners!). You want to be extra careful with cleaning your brush at this stage. Only the faintest amount of pigment should be left on your bristles. This stage actually goes fairly quickly though. This whole process doesn't usually take all that long though. Once you've figured out just how to do it to your satisfaction, you'll start blowing through models. A lot of people just stop after base coating and a wash, but with one or two more quick steps, it model can look SO MUCH BETTER! It'll also eliminate any need for a wash most of the time! This unit didn't have any washes applied. It creates it's own shadows! Try it out, play with it, and I think you'll like the results. Also, when starting a new unit, do a "test pilot" model from start to finish before batch painting. You may see something that you want to change or just didn't work in your mind. If you'll notice, I usually post a pick of single models before I show an entire unit. That was just the "test pilot" model for me. Also gives me a good gauge to reference with doing the rest, to make sure I'm sticking close to the original formula. Hope that helps guys!
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Post by mottdon on Dec 27, 2020 15:42:30 GMT
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